Trek from Taobat to Minimarg (English ver)

Written by: Jawwad Nafees (Managing Director, jn trekkers club)

Everyone is aware of the beauty of Kashmir. You see green mountains and verdant valleys, everywhere. If you visit any area in Kashmir, like Rawalakot, Bagh, Mirpur, Muzaffarabad, Neelum Valley, Arang Kel, Taobat etc, your heart and mind will be refreshed. Someone said long ago that “Kashmir is Jannat Nazir”, really well said. Every valley of Kashmir is very beautiful and worth seeing. From Muzaffarabad to Kel, the view is almost the same. On one side the vehicles drive along the continuous mountain and on the other side the river Neelum runs along. I believe if you want to enjoy the real beauty of Kashmir then travel beyond Kel, towards Taobat or Domel.

There are many options for trekking in Pakistan, some tracks are very common where almost every trekker treks during the season. But there are many treks which are not common for trekkers. Taobat to Minimarg trek is also among the treks which are trekked by less people. Because this trek is along with line of control and it is an army-controlled area. We can also call it a restricted area. In order to trek in this area, a permit has to be obtained from the Pakistan Army. And this should be done at least 2 months in advance to get it in time.

Where to get permission or NOC?

Now the question is, where will the permit be obtained? This is a question that took 3 years to answer and no information could be found. But in 2021, Alhamdulillah, we got the information and permission too. Pakistan Army has its headquarter in Kel where 32 brigade is serving. The permit is issued from the same 32 Brigade. At least 2 months in advance you have to contact, and apply with your name along with identity card, and tour details. As mentioned earlier this is a restricted area so Pakistan Army has to verify the background of each trekker.

After getting the permission you start your journey, and before starting the journey remind the concerned person again that we are arriving on such day. 32 Brigade informs all the remaining check posts ahead that following tourists are going to pass through this route. This way you don’t have any problem at any check post. From your city you reach Muzaffarabad and then from Muzaffarabad to Kel. If reaching by evening, stay overnight at Kel, do any shopping for the trek. But if you arrive during the day, you can also go direct to Taobat. As it takes a whole day to reach Kel from Muzaffarabad, it is better to spend one night in Kel, and leave for Taobat the next morning.

Kel to Taobat

According to Google, the road from Kel to Taobat is 40.4 KM and it takes 5 to 6 hours to reach here, as the road is not in very good condition. Jeep leaves from Kel at around 9 a.m, and charge per person. If you are a group of 6 to 8 trekkers, you must hire a full jeep for you. First comes the Halmat check post where the identity cards of all the tourists are kept. But you don’t give them your identity card, and tell them that we have to trek to Minimarg. We will not come back by this route but we will return from Gilgit. If they have received the information of your arrival from 32 Brigade, then you will be release early, otherwise you will have to stand there and make a phone call. It is a beautiful area, you must spend a night here. And should start the trek from the next day.

Taobat to Kamri Top (Kamri Pass)

There are two tracks from Taobat to Minimarg, one from Gagai Nala and the other from Dudgai. The map of this track is not available anywhere for general public. Google does not provide much details about this track. Fragmented information is available on various websites. The track from Taobat Bridge to Taobat Bala is 2.37 KM. Beyond this, a dense forest area begins. Green mountains, lush green grass, tall thick trees, hide and seek of sun, made your trekking memorable. You trek in this forest and enjoy the beauty of Kashmir. After walking for about 6 hours, the base of Pakistan Army comes, named as Haroon Base. This base is not visible because it is located on top of the mountains. Only an accompanying guide can tell you. Here, in the same area some shepherds are also sitting with their families, which can help you to understand the way forward. They may provide you milk, butter, lassi, etc. If you want to camp, you can do it here. But one caution is necessary, that is, since it is a forest, there is danger of snakes and insects. A friend of ours had also seen a snake and asked us to leave the place immediately. No wild animals were found on the way, and no one reported anything like that. So, camp at a place where the surface must be plain. You should not have bushes or thick grass around you.

1st Camp (Taobate to Plain Meadow)

It is my suggestion that if you want to set up the first camp, trek further beyond Haroon Base. After about 1.5 Hours more trekking, comes another shepherd’s settlement. This place is also close to the water and the forest also ends. So, it is a good place to spend the night. Beyond this town it is only a hike which ends at Kamri Top (Kamri Pass).

Another option

Another option for camping is that if you trek for another 1.5 Hours from here, you will see a couple more Shepherd’s settlements just below Kamri Top. It is a meadow like area. You can set up your camp far away from these settlements so that they are not disturbed. It takes 9 hours to reach here from Taobat. 9 hours is enough for trekking, but it is up to you and the group members. And it depends on the courage how far and how much you walk. From here you have a clear view of Pakistan Army’s Check Post, which is located on Kamri Top. Another thing that Pakistan Army told us is that bears live here behind the mountains, which sometimes come to hunt goats. Therefore, you should not set up your camp in the wilderness, but near the settlements of these shepherds.

Kamri Top (Kamri Pass 3,650 meters)

After breakfast on the second day, you will face a difficult climb. How long it takes you to get there depends on your courage and speed. According to my estimate it may take at least 1.5 hours and maximum 3 hours. You reach the Kamri check post and the Pakistan Army soldiers happily welcome you. You must sit next to them, spend some time and listen to them about the area, their life stories and then start your journey again.

Dudgai village

Other side from the Kamri top is only descent. There are track marks due to movement of local shepherds and Pakistan Army. Following these marks, you reach Dudgai village in 3 to 4 hours. Coming down from the peak, a stream or a small river runs alongside you and in a way this river also guides you. According to a website, “Dudgai is the last village on the border and is where the Kamri River enters the Guraiz Valley of Indian Occupied Kashmir where it becomes the Kishin Ganga before returning to Azad Kashmir, taking the name Neelam”. Even down from the Kamri Pass there are shepherd settlements. One thing to keep in mind is that all the shepherds you meet along the way have dogs to protect their goats. Since very few tourists pass by, these dogs start barking at strangers and run towards them at high speed. So, whenever you pass by these settlements, be very careful and pass in a group. But another surprising thing that Pakistan Army soldiers told us is that when it snows in winter, the whole area is covered with snow and paths get lost. 10 to 15 feet of snow falls on the Kamri top. Due to which the check post also gets lost in the snow. And when the weather improves, Pakistan Army soldiers return to the check post, these dogs show them the way and mark the original location.

There is another Pakistan Army post near Dudgai village which is called Dudgai Headquarter. Stay here for a while, say hello to the brave soldiers, and then move on. By the way, there is a jeep track from here to Minimarg. But every year it is broken or closed due to snowfall and landslides. And it is difficult to find a jeep here because the jeep comes here with someone’s luggage etc., otherwise you can’t find a jeep here.

2^nd Camp (Kamri Village)

As you step out of the Dudgai headquarter, you see the splendor views. Small but well-built settlements are found here. Where you see women, men, and children. Different crops are grown. Even on the trek you will meet a lot of people passing by. The scenery before Dudgai HQ and after Dudgai HQ is completely different. A clear difference is felt that now we have entered from one world to another. After more or less 2 hours, comes the Kamri village. You will found proper house buildings, school, and shops. I suggest you find a suitable place to camp here on the second night.

Minimarg The next day you leave after breakfast, after about 1.5 Hours, you will come to another headquarter of Pakistan Army which is called Kamri Headquarter or Kamri Base. This headquarter is much better than the previous headquarters. In fact, this headquarter deliver rations and other necessities of life to the check posts in the mountain, and manage the movement of troops etc. Your identity cards are also checked here. If you get a jeep from here, you will reach Minimarg in 1 hour, otherwise maybe 2 hours by trekking. Seeing the beauty of Minimarg, your eyes are dazzled. It is a very beautiful area, this whole area is also under the control of Pakistan army. Here your target is complete. Now it is up to you to take a jeep to Domel, visit Crystal Lake and Rainbow Lake or go to Chilam Chowki from there. Go to Astore or Skardu whichever direction you want to go.